How We Make Boots

at Custom-Boots.NET


There are many, many steps to completing a custom-made boot. Some you can see when you hold a boot in your hand, others are hidden from view once a boot is finished and ready to wear. Below is a summary of steps necessary to make a boot ... click on any of the photos to get yourself a close-up view.

1. Measuring

Foot, Calf and Leg Measurements based on the accurate measurements you have made and sent to us electronically.

2. Designing Your Boots

We select the leather, the toe and heel style & heel height and incorporate any design you desire for the boot tops.
3. Boot Tops
We prepare paper patterns and from these paper patterns, we cut the tops, lining, front and back stays, and pull-straps out of leather.

Then, we skive the appropriate edges of top pieces and we assemble the tops with cement, including beading. Next, we sew the tops and pull-straps with inlays, overlays, and stitch patterns.
4. Vamps
Cut vamps and lining
Stretch vamps and lining over crimpboards.
Measure, trim and attach vamps and foot linings to tops.
5. Counters

Cut out hard leather counter and counter cover
Slit, fit, and cement counter to boot top
Skive and cement counter
Sew counter and counter cover to top, trim.
6. Side Seaming and Pull Straps
Cut, cement, and sew side welt (piping)
Rub seams down flat
Attach pull-straps
Turn tops right-side-out
7. Fitting the Last
Compare standard last to foot measurements
Build up last (if necessary) with leather
Smooth finish
8. Insole

Nail insole to the last
Trim and shape insole
Cut channel for welt
9. Lasting the boot and Toe Box

Stretch wet vamp and counter over last
Anchor with tacks
Turn back vamp leather and position toe boxes
Cement, dry and smooth toe boxes
Pull and anchor vamp leather over toe boxes
10. Inseaming, placing shanks and shank covers
Punch holes through insole with awl
Stitch inseaming thread through welt and insole
Trim and flatten seam
Sew in shank, sew or peg around heel
Insert steel shank or flattened 40 penny nail
Fill in shank and bottom of insole with leather pieces
Shape/grind shank, then peg
11. Attaching Soles and Pegging

Trim welt to desired width
Cement and trim sole to welt
Sew and peg soles
Ink and finish front of sole
12. Stacking Heels
Stack, cement and trim layers of heel leather
Nail or peg heels, and add rubber heel cap
Sand heels to final matching shape
13. Finishing the Boot

Ink the heel
Pull the last out, sand pegs inside boot
Insert heel pad

Put 'em on your feet ... and ENJOY!

Click on the Boots link above, so we can start making yours!

Follow us ...


How We Make Boots | Our LOW Prices | Articles | Links
Terms of Use | Home

Send Us Your Measurements   Online Measurement Form